Lee
Senior Member
Posts: 1,899 
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Post by Lee on Nov 30, 2003 0:23:07 GMT 1
What kind/type of adhesive do you use to put together plastic, resin or metal kits? My favorite is Alteco, a locally made CA. Alteco sells a tip extender that is very thin and about 2" long. You can see the glue moving down the clear tube thereby being able to control the amount used.
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Post by Christian on Nov 30, 2003 1:37:22 GMT 1
For plastic just the usual liquid glue. I have not yet observed any differences between any of the popular glues.
Resin and small metal parts I tend to glue with CA, though I am always having problems with the durability of the links. I should give this Alteco stuff you mention a try.
In case of metal kits I believe that soldering is by far the best alternative.
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Lee
Senior Member
Posts: 1,899
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Post by Lee on Nov 30, 2003 2:11:20 GMT 1
Soldering something like an Alloy kit?  Never thought about it. Does it work?  |
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Post by Eric on Nov 30, 2003 16:34:01 GMT 1
For plastic I use Revell Contacta professional, a liquid glue with a metal syringe-like applicator. Much better to control (in my opinion) then the liquid adhesives that come with those brush applicators. I use CA for metal, resin and small parts and sometimes use contact glues (for glueing wood to metal for instance). As for soldering, I've never tried to solder a complete kit yet but I did solder the body of the L'Obsidiënne Berliet Stradair that is on the workbench at the moment. The body of this kit consist of one big etched plate which has to be folded and CA just wasn't strong enough to do the trick.  |
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Post by Christian on Nov 30, 2003 17:25:46 GMT 1
Soldering chassis and interiors works very well, but I wouldn't try this on parts visible from the outside. Pewter kits have a rather low melting point...  |
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Post by Albert on Nov 30, 2003 23:02:59 GMT 1
I use Faller or Revell plastic glue, always with a syringe aplicator. For metal or resin parts I use cyanocrylate glue and for glazing or transparent front lights, I use white glue. This one is good because when dry it becomes transparent.  |
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Post by Christian on Dec 6, 2003 19:51:35 GMT 1
Liquid white glue is also great for attaching parts to already painted surfaces as I have found out.
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Post by cfesmire on Jan 26, 2004 0:41:38 GMT 1
I also solder a lot. I use a lot of brass and no glue is very good for it. If you want to glue clear glass, Krystal Klear actually works fairly well and I use contact cement for areas I "dry fit" that need to be held together but you want to come apart easily later.
Of course there's no substitute for the super glues. I like to buy the kind with brushes in the bottle for descriminate application.
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MSteele
Junior Member
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Post by MSteele on Jun 7, 2004 8:00:02 GMT 1
For extreme circumstances (If i cannot get parts to hold by glueing) i had to resort to taking out the solidering iron and melting the plastic to hold. but this has its drawbacks. First u could take a chance on destroying a model . Second its hard to weld a straight line in plastic.
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Lee
Senior Member
Posts: 1,899
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Post by Lee on Jun 7, 2004 23:10:55 GMT 1
Of course there's no substitute for the super glues. I like to buy the kind with brushes in the bottle for descriminate application. I have never seen a super glue with a brush in the bottle. Do you mean a CA glue or something else? If it is a CA glue, what is the brand name? |
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Lee
Senior Member
Posts: 1,899
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Post by Lee on Jun 7, 2004 23:15:03 GMT 1
For extreme circumstances (If i cannot get parts to hold by glueing) i had to resort to taking out the solidering iron and melting the plastic to hold. but this has its drawbacks. First u could take a chance on destroying a model . Second its hard to weld a straight line in plastic. Have you ever tried a glue that chemicaly melts the plastic like Plastic Weld by Plastuct? You do have to hold or clamp the parts together to give time for the glue to "dry" |
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Post by cfesmire on Jun 7, 2004 23:36:52 GMT 1
Lee,
The super glue I buy with a brush is available from my local harware store with their suppliers name on it (Best Hrdwr) the bottles are very small (.18 oz.) and do not last long.
I often use a solvent glue for styrene (Duco plastic model cement) and yes, you should hold or clamp for a few minutes, complete set-up time: 10 hrs. A styrene joint done with solvent glues like the one mentioned above are impossible to get apart if properly done. Caution: solvent glues can be messy, small amounts are all that is necessary.
A word about soldering cast metal pieces: As Christian points out, metal castings have low melting points. Some manufacturers metal even has lower melting points than the solder itself. Try a few pieces of sprue before attempting on a piece you need. I ruined a perfectly good Langley dragline bucket once trying to attach copper chain to it. Also it can be tough to solder some metal diecast pieces like from Siku or Imex since they are a much denser metal (I have heard it referred to as Zamac and Mazak) and have lower lead content.
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BillC
87thScale addict
Posts: 2,541
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Post by BillC on Jun 25, 2004 7:29:08 GMT 1
Since I work almost exclusively with plastic, I use Faller glue or Testors Liquid Cement (which is my favorite). I suppose one of these days, I will pick up some Tenax 7R, which has been recommended. Depending on the joint, I use either a brush or needle applicator.
For working with metal kits, I use epoxy and white glue. Christian is absolutely right about white glue and painted parts.
While I know many modelers are addicted to it, I very seldom use CA for anything other than quickie household repairs or tacking something to the layout. The joints are too brittle, with poor shear strength, and the fumes released as it cures will cloud transparent plastic.
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Post by Cor_DutchArt on Dec 10, 2004 10:24:43 GMT 1
Soldering something like an Alloy kit? Never thought about it. Does it work? Well I once did it on a Woodland Scenics model. But just because I had no other option left. And gess what.... It succeeded! But I will never tell anybody to try this! Cor van der Meijde |
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Post by Cor_DutchArt on Dec 10, 2004 10:36:54 GMT 1
Yes,
As Chritian told you: liquid white glue for resin and small
parts on resin models.
In the build-description of l'Obsidienne they tell to use
"colle blanc" (that's French, Lee!) so I translated it into
Dutch as "houtlijm"
It takes not much more time till it is dry as a common
plastic-glue.
Another option, I use that on alloy, it 2K glue from Henkell.
Cor van der Meijde
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Never thought about it. Does it work? 
