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Post by cfesmire on Apr 30, 2005 14:01:39 GMT 1
When glueing styrene, you can't beat the holding power of Tenax. You merely hold two pieces of plastic together and let a small amount of Tenax flow into the joint and in 10 seconds you have a welded seam. My problem is getting the fluid (which evaporates at an alarming rate) from the bottle to the model. I have been dipping a dental pick in the bottle and then transferring it to the joint I want to glue. This is not entirely satisfactory. Any good suggestions?
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Lee
Senior Member
Posts: 1,899
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Post by Lee on May 1, 2005 1:39:54 GMT 1
Alteco, makes a long, thin clear plastic tubing that fits over the end of a tube. You can see the liquid flowing down the tube giving good control over the amount used. Pack of six sells for around $1.50. If you can not locate it on the east coast, give me a yell.
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Post by cfesmire on May 1, 2005 4:03:12 GMT 1
Thanks Lee. On your suggestion, I found small pipettes in the Micro-Mark catalog.
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Post by cfesmire on May 29, 2005 16:26:29 GMT 1
This is a find that I made at a LHS that some of you are aware of, I'm sure. The Model Master liquid cement for plastic models does a great job on several different kinds of plastic. It never gets hard to the point of being brittle. I found it to be the best at doing Jordan kits because of the very nice applicator nozzle, the most accurate from the bottle applicator I have used. Now you all can say "where has this guy been for the last 20 years?"
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Post by swampdaddy on Nov 27, 2005 13:54:37 GMT 1
Hello everyone: I have used a lot of Testors liquid solvent type glue for plastics and some by other makers. I have found that sometime between 10 - 15 years later the joints (where the glue is) have turned a dirty brown like rust.
sometimes a light scraping by a knife removes it but in many cases this would damage detail and the only solution is to repaint. Trying for a strong joint I probably get too much glue on the joined parts.
I have some buildings (no cars) glued with Tenax 7R about 5 years ago. No color change yet. but who knows what 5 more years will show. I often go to the dollar store where you can get 3 or 4 small tubes of CA for $1. Sure, they dry up quickly (this can sometimes be delayed by storing them in a refriderator. But I consider these "job" tubes. This means I will ready a project by sanding, test fitting, painting and otherwise preparing a model. Then I glue it all at one time with the CA. Usually before I am ready with the next project that tube of CA is hard and worthless. So I use the next one.
Swamp Daddy.
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Post by cfesmire on Nov 27, 2005 15:57:05 GMT 1
Yep swamp, we live in a world of disposables. I do the same thing, buying the smallest, cheapest size available even in my business. There's nothing worse than buying gallon containers of my wood glue and wasting half of it when it goes bad before it's empty. By the way, I found a great way to apply Tenax. Take a large sewing needle and cut the thread end so it is in the shape of a Y, then poke the sharp end into a small dowel for a handle. It has worked very well.
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stanhas87
87thScale addict
1978 Dodge Monaco CHP
Posts: 4,906
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Post by stanhas87 on Nov 27, 2005 20:41:54 GMT 1
Dear Sirs:
Same problems with the Testors glue: after a while it becames like a rock and the model in question falls apart on the joints which have sharo angle joinings (e.g.,helicopter blades).
I glued one my broken models with Tenax 40 or so years ago. Up to now.the piece kept in place and no 'rust rocks' are to be seen.
Now a question: I bought a bus that is made out of resin. Its chassi keeps falling out;Testors seems not to work on these. Which glue is recommended for these?
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Post by cfesmire on Nov 27, 2005 22:58:06 GMT 1
Nick, Tenax only works on styrene plastic it is a solvent type glue. On resin I use CA glues (super glue)
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stanhas87
87thScale addict
1978 Dodge Monaco CHP
Posts: 4,906
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Post by stanhas87 on Nov 28, 2005 1:32:44 GMT 1
Dear Chester:
Thank you. There I go to the 99 cent store in order to get one tube.
Nick K
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