Chrome Accent Lines

[skunk]

In response a post of Albert's, regarding a Nissan Figaro he's working on, I will tell you how I add the chrome strips onto the bodywork of older cars. I think Lee is the one that first told me how to do it, I just modified the method to fit my needs/abilities/toolbox:


-With a scriber, carefully scribe a line onto the bodywork of about the same width and depth as the chrome strip you are trying to create.

-drill a hole at each end of the line (#80 or 0.3mm usually works for me).

-Tie a knot at one end of a suitably thick brass wire. Insert it from the inside of the body, then testfit the wire to fit the groove and bend it to its proper shape.

-Affix the wire with your adhesive of choice, I like Kristal Kleer or even clearcoat laquer. Tighten the wire (this is why you need the holes at the ends). Paint, and voila! Hope it was worth the work.


I suppose that a soldering iron will work quicker, I am just somewhat wary of using it around plastic bodywork...

[skunk]

cfesmire said:

On this particular piece I used the Alcad directly over the body color since it was dark and glossy. On a lighter color body I would paint the chrome black first and then the Alcad without having to change the mask. I find even doing the two coats over the body color with the airbrush, I get less paint on the model than had I done it by hand. My hand just isn't as steady as most (at least Dave's and Sylvain's).

You are right there, Chester. Two coats of airbrushing is definitely gonna end up thinner than one coat with a brush. And since you don't have to remove the masking between coats it won't really be that much extra work.

[DavidJohnson]

For those reading in this thread, there are two other threads ( at least ) with discussion of chrome.

"Painting Lines" , under "The Workbench/The Workbench"

"Dave's Models", page 2, under "The Workbench / All Done"

[skunk]

Yeah, I chose to respond in this thread so as not to segue too far off topic - one likes to avoid the wrath of those slavering, moderating hellhounds (Christian, Albert, Eric ).

[DavidJohnson]

cfesmire said:

On this particular piece I used the Alcad directly over the body color since it was dark and glossy. On a lighter color body I would paint the chrome black first and then the Alcad without having to change the mask. I find even doing the two coats over the body color with the airbrush, I get less paint on the model than had I done it by hand. My hand just isn't as steady as most (at least Dave's and Sylvain's).

Chester,
Your Windsor is excellent!

Really my hand is not so steady; even on a good day of brush painting chrome there are at least a couple slips to fix. Modelmaster thinner and a microbrush do wonders at removing my mistakes.

Dave

[skunk]

I would like to have a class in masking taught by Chester. My masking jobs always end up looking awful and so bulky so as to interfere with the paint spray. And while I use frankly ridiculous amounts of material there are always a half-dozen leaks and/or fuzzy edges. And then paint somehow enters the inside of the car and leaves a little rim of contrasting color around all of the windows.

This is naturally somewhat exaggerated, but in essence it is equal to a "hats off" to Chester.

[cfesmire]

Thanks to all for the kind words, and thanks Håkan for moving the posts where they belong.
I use a combination of tape for masking. The thin chrome strips for the sides of cars, I use the translucent Scotch tape. On curved areas and for masking big areas I use the blue painters tape. I don't limit myself to one product to mask, just like there are good uses for BMF, Alcad and silver enamel. I don't think any one is better than the other because each has a way of accomplishing it's own specific job. Recently there was a fellow that claimed BMF was better than anything else for chrome. Ever try to BMF a wheel? We shouldn't be afraid to combine products or techniques to get a better job.
Håkan, if you give a quick shot of clear to a masked area and let it dry, the new color won't bleed under your mask. (the clear already did) and stuff a piece of cotton or foam inside the car.

[DavidJohnson]

I started a test panel to compare Testors Modelmaster "silver chrome trim 2734" to Humbrol Metal Cote "polished aluminum 27002" At first I merely stirred and brush painted both, and the Testors was brighter. Then I read the Humbrol instructions about stirring and shaking, so I painted a second coat of each. Now both paints are about the same. I need to see how they look after a few days.

I posted this in another thread, but it belongs here. Sylvain and I have had a "grass is greener on the other side of the fence" thing where both of us believed the other had a better paint for chrome trim.

Via internet search I finally was able to purchase Humbrol Metal Cote polished aluminum #27002. I painted this on a test panel beside Testor's Modelmaster chrome trim 2734, which I use (for trim too small to use BMF).

To my eyes Modelmaster 2734 is slightly more brilliant compared to Humbol 27002. It was close and my son who does military models selected the Humbrol. The paints were most brilliant when freshly applied. Overcoating with clear ( Future Floor Wax) diminished the brilliance of both. Polishing changed the appearance, but did not necessarily improve the illusion of chrome.

In my test I did not consider ease of applying the paint in a fine line and durability of the finish.

Dave

[skunk]

I like the various chrome markers, although the flow of the paint is sometimes a bit excessive. Occasionally I will deposit a lot of the ink from the marker onto a neutral surface and then use a brush to apply it to the model, but the ink dries much too quick and does a lot of violence to the brush. Looks good though.

[jackfitz1944]

I'll get my two cents worth in on this topic. I use good old Testors Silver enamel. I have a half dozen bottles of it. It goes on thick and will cover details if it is laid on too thick (I sometimes use it for that purpose). I know Sylvain paints the chrome first and then the body color. I tried this method and had trouble covering the Testors silver. So for now I'll keep using it the way I have for years.

[cfesmire]

Jack, I used to buy the Testors silver (and still have a few bottles) but found that as soon as the bottle is opened, it goes bad (turns real thick) quickly. I'm using Floquil silver now and like Håkan, the chrome markers and pens. By the way, it takes some practice but I actually paint upside down with chrome pens (holding the point up) and have more control of the flow.

[Sylvain]

davidjohnson said:

…Sylvain and I have had a "grass is greener on the other side of the fence" thing where both of us believed the other had a better paint for chrome trim….

Nicely said I've never tried Testors silver, but in fact, I'm not sure to have seen it here. I will look for it, as I like to try.

Humbrol Metal Cote polished aluminium was the best I've been able to find easily I model shops. Once thing I don't like about it is that, when a bottle is opened, after a while, it's less brighter when you use it. And many times, after starting using what was left in a bottle, I stop and get a new one as I'm not happy with the results.

[Sylvain]

jackfitz1944 said:

…I know Sylvain paints the chrome first and then the body color…

In fact, I don't do this for all chromes. It also depends of the model. But I usually do so for windows and front grilles, especially on solid cast clear resin kits, but not only. Soon I will start working on CMC models, I'll try to take pictures of the model in process.

[skunk]

cfesmire said:

I'm using Floquil silver now and like Håkan, the chrome markers and pens. By the way, it takes some practice but I actually paint upside down with chrome pens (holding the point up) and have more control of the flow.

Thanks Chester, can't wait to try this method.

[DavidJohnson]

sylvain said:

Humbrol Metal Cote polished aluminium was the best I've been able to find easily I model shops. Once thing I don't like about it is that, when a bottle is opened, after a while, it's less brighter when you use it. And many times, after starting using what was left in a bottle, I stop and get a new one as I'm not happy with the results.

The same happens with Testor's Modelmaster chrome silver. If the paint begins to need thinner added, I have found it no longer is useful for chrome.