Sculpting small details

[only87]

I ever wondered how resin manufacturers or some of you do their little details like eaves and decorative battens for the masters and models.
I found a simple and effective way for myself, but still it is very time-consuming.
Sometimes, I still use plastic sheets, if I have to build something completely new, but on the other hand the details are sometimes to tiny or just a part of a rain eave has to be repaired. That's when I use paint.
For example the white paint from Revell (N° 04), which thickens after a few painting sessions so much in its can, that you can't use it for painting wider surfaces any more. That's when I try to use it as a kind of putty.

My first attempts were a set of wheels for a Herpa Range Rover, so I left a fat drop of paint in the center of the rims. I let it dry until the paint is so tough that if you touch it it won't stick to your finger any more. The paint is still so moist under the surface that you can sculpt it just with a little pressure. I usually use a small knife for that and I do that from time to time until it stays in the condition I squeeze it (about 45 minutes). After letting it dry for a day or two any irregulations can be fixed the same way.

After seeing the success on that I tried smaller details like eaves, stripes and lettering. I found out that you can make readable letterings that way, but it needs a calm hand, some patience and exercise. The lettering on the front of the Roman truck on my site was the first attempt on that, I know now, with a little more patience it can even be done better and nicer.

After drying the structure isn't too fragile at all, not less than such details on resin pieces.

So, which way do you sculpt such things?

[Lee]

Plastic, soft metals and various putties probably are the main materials used. If you look at some of the never produced SMCC pictures, you will see a lot of thin brass used for trim, etc.

Part of the trick is in the tools used. Dental picks of various types are great for carving small details. Next time you go to your dentist, ask him/her if they have any old tools that you could have. Their old tools are still plenty sharp for our use, if not theirs.

Another tool that helps is a good eye loop. Having the image that you are working on larger than life so you can really see it helps alot.

It seems that everyones favorite tool is the knife blade(mine too) but there really are better tools for doing some jobs. ;D

[skunk]

Thank you both!

*Going to the dentist, asking for used tools, is brilliant.

*I too, tend to resort to using the trusty old knife for nearly everything (last time, I was carving out hollows for headlights on a metal die-cast with a blade... duh)

*Using thick paint for lettering is also genius. I have been wanting to create a Sheer Rover for some time, but have had problems figuring out how to make the raised lettering on the bonnet (hood .

About those Range Rover wheels: were you trying to make the three spoke Rangie rims? I have been trying to figure out a good way.

Christians method, dissolving small pieces of plastic in cement also works a treat, but the fumes are killing me... well, to be honest, it's quite fun at first, but the headaches and the double vision make for less-than-perfect modelling.


But the real small detail sculpting is when making freestanding parts, such as rear view mirrors or hood ornaments. I usually work from a scrap plastic rod, working my way down to the place where the new piece is detached. I made a perfect rear view mirror for a Chevy Monte Carlo this way, but now I am really afraid that the other one wont look anything like its sibling...

Lastly, what should I do for a Spirit of Ecstasy for an RR Camargue? I dont think I am capable of sculpting that one myself.

[only87]

No, just the usual steel rims from the first series, I had a picture on my site but I think I've deleted it.
But I am thinking about the 3-spokes for a 5-door conversion, haven't found anything suitable yet.

[cfesmire]

Often the details we talk about, like car lettering and small chrome strips, are so minute in 1-87 that they would project out far beyond what would be considered realistic if actually "sculpted". I have taken to cutting such small items out of sheets of decals. Full sheets of decal material can be had in a myriad of finishes from solid colors to a variety of metallic finishes. This also, of course eliminates the need to paint the detail. Sharp knives, tiny scissors and quality decal material are a must.

[Lee]

Great idea Chester!!

Now here could be a cottage industry for someone. Making up decal sheets on your computer with scaled down vehicle logos and trim pieces and printing out on your printer.

[Christian]

skunk said:

Christians method, dissolving small pieces of plastic in cement also works a treat, but the fumes are killing me... well, to be honest, it's quite fun at first, but the headaches and the double vision make for less-than-perfect modelling.

Now now, I never recommended inhaling that stuff. ;D I only ever use a few drops of glue in a well ventilated place. If that's killing you, how do you actually glue things together?

Lee: check this out: www.decalprint.de/index1e.htm

[nighthawk]

Hallo christian,
your link to decalprint was a winner. was looking for someone to print those boley grilles. guess i found one!
thanks

[cfesmire]

Nighthawk,
If you check out the PenBay decals, they have what they refer to as the "Truckers assortment". On this sheet they have a couple of grill decals for a Ford Aeromax and the Mack CH. The Mack CH comes in the version used by UPS that does not have the Mack letters on it and can be trimmed to fit the Boley IH grilles. Lots of other great stuff on this sheet including license plates etc.

emmrc.freeyellow.com/Penbay.htm
Can be purchased at:
www.truckstopmodels.com/catalog_order_forms/pen_bay_order_decals.php

[Lee]

When working on a model the ridges on the fingers act as small files or sandpaper on the edges of details. Using a hard material for trim will hold up better and keep sharper edges if a lot of other work still needs to be done. That is why we started using brass pieces for trim instead of plastic. When building a master, it is almost a must.