skunk
87thScale addict
5th B-day
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Post by skunk on Aug 30, 2006 2:55:52 GMT 1
Finally purchased my first Dremel! A 300 model, with a minimum of extras for now. I already have my eyes on a few things, though...
I realize I need to figure out at which speed Evergreen begins melting, because when I was testing it out I got some weird effects. I better learn how to use this well before I take it to a car body. Should be fun. Anyone have any particular advice?
But, as I have no other tools, I guess I will have to limit myself to painting countless Preiser figurines until I can get going on other things.
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BillC
87thScale addict
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Post by BillC on Aug 30, 2006 3:43:39 GMT 1
Use the slowest speed.
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Lee
Senior Member
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Post by Lee on Aug 30, 2006 23:44:28 GMT 1
You mean the one that says OFF? ;D Skunk, it is friction and a dull cutter that causes the heat. Use a sharp bit and light pressure letting the bit do the cutting. |
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BillC
87thScale addict
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Post by BillC on Aug 31, 2006 2:51:05 GMT 1
You mean the one that says OFF? ;D In my case, yes. I never use a Dremel to cut Evergreen Styrene. However, the slowest speed above "off" will be sufficient to make the cut while minimizing the melting. P.S. Lee, just for that, I am not going to tell the list about the new Ricko models that are now available.  |
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Lee
Senior Member
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Post by Lee on Aug 31, 2006 4:00:51 GMT 1
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skunk
87thScale addict
5th B-day
Posts: 2,762
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Post by skunk on Aug 31, 2006 4:03:20 GMT 1
haha, there seems to be some friction on the board as well...
Thank you for the advice - I was using too high of a speed and too much pressure, but the bit was brand spanking new. That was also why I used it on a scrap piece at first. In any case, I only intend to use a Dremel for coarser work, leaving the fine tuning to my trusty set of files.
cheers
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Post by cfesmire on Aug 31, 2006 17:28:44 GMT 1
I found the Dremel came in handy for hollowing out solid resin pieces. I don't cut styrene with it either unless it's to cut things apart and then go with Håkans advice to cut big and file down.
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BillC
87thScale addict
Posts: 2,541
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Post by BillC on Aug 31, 2006 17:42:17 GMT 1
Whoops! Seems like I left something off my last post. Sorry! |
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skunk
87thScale addict
5th B-day
Posts: 2,762
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Post by skunk on Sept 3, 2006 3:54:16 GMT 1
Ooooh, I LOVE this thing!
I just hollowed out an Autosculpt Saab Sonett II (2-stroke, no unsightly bump on the hood) in about two hours time. Hollowing out a Magnuson Chevy Nova took me nearly three days last year without a Dremel, so essentially the thing has already been amortized. My right thumb has suffered some vibration damage, though.
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Post by austinvfd on Sept 3, 2006 14:36:34 GMT 1
I have owned a Dremel for years, but since my modelling adventures were only revived about 3 months ago, I definately used it on my models, and was totally inexperienced as you. Although I found out that melting was hard to avoid with the styrene, if you make the cut so the melting occurs on the opposite side, the results are not that bad, and most of the time the melted styrene is easily snapped off or shaved after the cut. It is a definate time saver, and I use it often to "buff" off just a hair width for that snug fit. I used it to chop the roof of a Boley Spartan fire truck cab, and it worked very well. A friend of mine did the same hack, using a had saw, and it took forever  CHEERS! |
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Lee
Senior Member
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Post by Lee on Sept 8, 2006 4:48:50 GMT 1
I have found that the diamond cutters don't melt the plastic nearly as much as the metal cutters. I don't think Dremel makes them but I found my set being sold by the Tool Man at a __ show. Edit - He has a website: web2.airmail.net/toolman/I think this is the set: Item #406 - 20 pc. 1/8" Diamond Burr Set - $9.95 Item #406A - 20 pc. 3/32" Diamond Burr Set - $9.95 |
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