Painting techniques

[Alan]

Okay, I just wanted to know how people go about painting their models.
For example, I was thinking of airbrushing using Humbrol type paints. Would this be wise? If so, would I need to use primer?

[cfesmire]

I have come to paint almost exclusively with automotive lacquers in an airbrush. I paint with Floquil when there will be a lot of same color detail work to do with a hand brush as lacquers dry so quickly it is difficult to keep the brush from hardening after only a few minutes. Automotive lacquers and thinner are cheap compared to the little bottles of model paints and it covers with less paint IMO. I've mentioned elsewhere that I have the patience of a kid on Christmas morning so fast drying is a plus for me. I've waited as much as 3 to 4 days for Floquil to dry. This isn't desirable if dust in the environment is an issue.
When applying a wash I use the water based Polly Scale paints. Over lacquers, if you futz up, a clean toothpick will remove the water based paint where you don't want it after it dries with a little rub.
Also, I 've come to prime nothing and never had a problem. So far I've learned the most important part of painting, is having a well prepped, clean (wash and dry thoroughly) model to start with.

[Lee]

I use Delta acrlic water base cut about 5% with water and applied with a brush. I like weathered looking finishes.

I used to use an air brush and still have both the air brush and compresser around somewhere. To much setup and cleanup work for doing small models.

I notice a number of people seem to be putting the paint on much to thick. Very thin coats gives a much better job. It is a real challenge in self control not to over paint when using an air brush. ONE pass per side of a model and let dry. Come back at a different angle to catch the missed spots with the second pass. Use a very light, misting spray. And practice on something else first. ;D

[BillC]

For plastic, I use PollyScale acrylics in an old Paasche airbrush. I can then use the same with regular brushes (Windsor & Newton red sable flats and rounds) for detailing, touchup etc.

For airbrushing, I thin with distilled water and use light coats. Acrylic sets up fast enough to apply several light coats in an evening.

After everything is the way I want it, I apply light coats of Testors Gloss Cote or Testors Dull Cote, depending on how the model will be used or whether it will be decaled. Those coats I allow to cure for several days before applying decals.

For white metal, I use standard hobby gloss enamels, thinned with the appropriate solvent thinner. I generally allow a couple of days to a week for the enamel to cure before masking and applying a second color, adding decals, etc. Finish coat os the same as for plastic models.

Lee is absolutely right about thin coats. You would be amazed how few coats are needed to give a nice opaque color and how much detail remains.

[cfesmire]

I think everyone agrees that in painting our little 1-87 pieces, less is more. Imagine how thick a paint job would actually be in 1:1 if you look at how much paint is put on some 1-87 pieces. Detail is often lost also as mentioned.
To add to what Bill says about decals, I always clear coat over decals. It protects them and helps to "blend" the edges into the model. Clear coating can be a little tricky over metalized paints however. Light passes at 20 lb. pressure, up close (2 to 3 inches) has been satisfactory for me. I use a single action Badger. Alcad and other metalized lacquers need no clear coat unless decals need to be covered. I also try to avoid a super high gloss at our scale, a satin (semi-gloss) gives a nice shine in 1-87.
As you may have guessed painting is a favorite subject of mine and I tend to rant. Feel free to apply the brakes at any time.

[Lee]

cfesmire said:

As you may have guessed painting is a favorite subject of mine and I tend to rant. .

Rant away Chester. I for one am all ears (eyes ;D) One nevers know from where one is going to learn the next modeling trick.

[cfesmire]

Lee,
You're so right, I never know when or where I will pick up a tip/trick. BTW, I like the diluted india ink tip on another thread. I've been using diluted water soluble paint (Polly scale) and am going to look for the india ink ASAP.

[mrbst30]

Wow I see I am really in the minority here, I brush paint, with testors enamels. Of course this also means each color is custom mixed, so no two cars are the same shade.

[Lee]

The old saying "If it works, don't fix it" ;D

I used to use Testors many, many years ago and found them to be very thick and very slow to dry. I wonder if they have changed their formula since I used them.

[mrbst30]

nope still very thick and slow to dry. I found a few cars I painted 3-4 years ago, but never finished chrome/windows ect. wow that paint had cured nicely in that time frame

[Lee]

When I was a partner in a hobby shop back in the early '90's my partner's wife introduced me to Delta Ceramcoat acrilic paints. They are much cheaper, around $1.50 for a 2 oz bottle, they do not dry up in the bottle, and brush on without leaving brush marks. They can normally be found in any craft store. They also come in a wide array of colors with new colors coming out every year.

[DavidJohnson]

Gentlemen,
I've gone a couple different directions on painting. and will probably change again.

For metal models I have airbrushed Floquil Zinc Chromate Primer, because I believe it provides better adhesion especially for model paints designed for plastic.

At one time I airbrushed everything with Testors solvent based enamels, intermixing both their regular and Modelmaster series. Results were very good and I am still happy with the finish quality of those models. When I lost my work area for airbrushing my modeling stopped as well, because I was unable to brush solvent enamels without leaving marks.

With Testors Acryl I found I could achieve good results brush painting, which got me back into 87th scale vehicle modeling. Testors Acryl mixes readily with Testors Modelmaster Acryl. Mainly I mix my own colors from white, black, silver, and the primaries blue, yellow, and red. Usually brush strokes are not a problem. For the few models where brush strokes show, I let them cure a few days then sand with #600 before brushing on a final coat. Usually my models have required 3-5 coats, which has said above hides some detail. So now I am beginning to learn to airbrush the acrylics.

[cfesmire]

David,
My hat's off to you. I cannot get a good finish with a brush. I use paint conditioners (additives for extending the drying time) which help immensly but still don't hold a candle to the airbrush. I can't imagine trying to paint the side of a 53' Stoughton trailer with a brush.
As mentioned, the Alcad metallic paints which I use a lot, absolutely must be applied with an airbrush. And my paint of choice for any other color is automotive laquer. Also an airbrush only choice.

Chester

BTW, a little tip for painting plastic, after a thorough cleaning, wash the model again in white vinegar. It only slightly etches the plastic giving a good "bite" for the paint and no need for primer.

[DavidJohnson]

Chester wrote.......I cannot get a good finish with a brush. I use paint conditioners (additives for extending the drying time) which help immensly but still don't hold a candle to the airbrush. I can't imagine trying to paint the side of a 53' Stoughton trailer with a brush.

Chester,
I'm painting mostly automobiles. and the acrylic has adequate open time for such small surfaces. Sometimes I need to sand out brush marks before the final coat. I find brush painting relaxing compared to setting up the airbrush in my garage.

For anything larger I use the airbrush. I have a couple van bodies waiting for Alcad.

Dave

[skunk]

cfesmire said:

BTW, a little tip for painting plastic, after a thorough cleaning, wash the model again in white vinegar. It only slightly etches the plastic giving a good "bite" for the paint and no need for primer.

Do you dilute the vinegar first? Can I use my very tasty Pomegranate Vinaigrette? How about Balsamic Vinegar for painting Italian cars?

No really, thanks for the tip, I'll have to try it.