Modeling tips

[Lee]

Sharing ideas to help others build a better model.

Question: On most models the headlights leave a lot to be desired. In a photo of a real vehicle it is obvious that the headlight is clear glass - it shines. The only way of coping this that I know of is drilling out the headlight and putting in a clear jewel or a "N" scale clear resin headlight lens. Has anyone found something else that works better??

[Christian]

I have heard of people drilling out the headlights and filling it with clear varnish or "Crystal Clear" glazing also.

A less complicated solution might be to paint the lights with a mix of silver and white to get the shine, don't know yet if that works.

[Alan]

I have done silver paint before on a couple of Kibri trucks.

[Eric]

I use several methods, on modern models that have seperate clear inserts as headlights I usually paint the rear of the inserts silver and give the front a coat of gloss varnish.

For a vintage Citroën I am currently building I am using crystals which will be glued in the middle of the drilled out headlight (and then painted clear yellow). After that I will add a drop of Kristal-Klear on top to get the rounded shape of the glass.

Another possibility would be the use of chrome Bare-Metal foil.

Eric

[Lee]

Look in the showcase, models at Jens Muller's Mini Models. Everyone of them has believable headlights. In fact the only way I can tell that the New Mini is a model is by the windshield, and you have to look to see it. Nice job Jens. Did the headlights come with the model or did you make them.

[Lee]

I never thought of covering the jewel with a clear. The biggest problem I had with jewels was the diamond like shape. Thanks for the tip!

[Eric]

Re: reply #5

Lee,

I am afraid I have caused a bit of a mix-up, let me clarify things ! I do not use the diamond-shaped jewels, these will not work, even if they are covered. What I use are a kind of lenses with a chrome backing. These lenses (can't find the name of the manufacturer at the moment) are commonly used on slotcars.

Albert,

since you are my lense supplier, could you clarify who the maker of these things is please ?

[Lee]

Sylvan Scale has an idea for headlights in their instructions. Paint the face silver and then put a small drop of clear yellow (clear red for taillights) over it leaving the edge exposed to make the headlight rim.

[Christian]

Lee said:

Look in the showcase, models at Jens Muller's Mini Models. Everyone of them has believable headlights.

I have had the chance to see the models in reality a few days ago. They are perfect, but the solution for the lights is simple. Jens simply paints the back of the glass inserts silver and that's it!

[Lee]

Most of the lights that I need are mounted on the top of the fenders. Reading others input has given me a thought which I have not tried as yet. How about drilling cone shaped holes in a piece of hard rubber. Mixing a clear resin and force it into the holes with a putty knife. When the resin is cured, the pieces can be popped out by flexing the rubber. Drill a very small hole a little ways into the rear to represent the bulb. Then paint it silver leaving the front clear. The only problem that I forsee at the moment is finding the right shaped drill. Maybe a small dremel bit would work. Any suggestions?

[skunk]

if your model already has a hollow where the light is supposed to be, like old Wiking or Roco, then dabbing Kristal klear works well.
I am making little teardrop taillights for a Mini in a similar way right now. i begin with painting a small silver circle, then dab krystal klear to make the light shape (sometimes several layers). Then you paint the light clear red or orange, leaving a little bit of silver around the edge.
the only problem is that Krystal Klear and others dont dry perfectly clear, if you use too much it turns yellowish.

how about making rusty flaky fenders? I tried moulding toilet paper soaked in rust colored paint to the right shape, which was fine, but it was hard to achieve the transition back to undamaged metal.
any ideas?

[Lee]

Welcom aboard Skunk! Thanks for the tips on the lights. As to doing an old fender, there are a number of methods. Tin foil (alum foil) comes in various thicknesses. You can make a fender out of the thicker commercial type that then can be crumpled up. Put a piece of foil over the fender and very carefully work it until it takes the shape of the fender. Then carefully remove the foil and cut away the part of the fender that you wish to show crumpled. Glue the foil to the remaining part of the fender then again, carefully crumple up the foil. I use chalks for rust, dirt, oil, etc. An old trick is mixing talcum power into the paint to give a flat, rough surface. Also working an existing fender with sand paper and a sharp knife can make it look old. Go slowly with any method because it can be overdone and becomes a mess.
An interesting project would be making car parts out of foil and using them as a truck load or laying around a garage, junk yard, etc.

[Eric]

Speaking of junkyards.....

Have a look at this: www.horailroad.com/clinic3/index.html

Eric

[Lee]

Talk about being topped!! Pictures are worth a thousand words. Very good site Eric. I never thought of doing the whole car, but there it is. Eric, what other interesting web sites have you found?? ;D

[Alan]

That's brilliant! I am planning to have a salvage yard on my layout and have collected some damaged/badly detailed models that I have purchased at shows. Perhaps the models mentioned on the worst manufactured models thread could end up this way?
I had experimented with aluminium foil in the past but it never looked right, perhaps it was not thick enough. Oh well, now I know I will increase the number of my scrap cars!