Lee
Senior Member
Posts: 1,899
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Post by Lee on Dec 3, 2006 4:23:13 GMT 1
Joe, I do not wish to disagree with you, but I read it differently. I marked the parts I mean:
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HydroShrink is a unique single component, flexible, 100% solids (contains no V.O.C.), polyurethane elastomeric compound. HydroShrink, when fully cured provides for simple method for reducing three dimensionally molded parts. Reduction of parts is done by simply molding the part with HydroShrink to form a rubber master. After curing 30 minutes at room temperature the molded HydroShrink part is removed from the mold and allowed to shrink at room temperature. Full reduction is 51 % the original part i.e. (a 12 inch part will reduced to 6.12 inches). Full reduction of parts can be achieved in 5 to 14 days depending on cross section thickness of the part. Thicker cross sections take longer while thinner cross sections require less time.
HydroShrink™ was created for artists wanting a fast economical way to reduce items. Sculpting smaller versions of objects is tedious and time consuming. With HydroShrink™ you can simply make silicone molds from objects and directly reduce them. When parts cast from HydroShrink™ are left to dehydrate they accurately decrease in size. By making smaller silicone molds from the reduced HydroShrink™, you can produce a series of progressively smaller molds. The result is exponential reduction of your original shape. Click here for MSDS or Tech Sheet.
I think the process is started by making a silicone mold of what you wish to reduce and then cast a part or piece from that mold with the HydroShrink
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Post by superba on Dec 3, 2006 14:56:37 GMT 1
Lee:
Your absolutely correct. Not only is the text clear, but reviewing the photo depicted on the web site does show a new smaller casting....my eyes played a trick on me. I tend not to ever read directions so lesson learned.
Here's the results of last nights experiment. The Rambler mold is complete. This morning I poured resin into the mold. I am still pulling rubber off the resulting cast. The good news is I have one casting the bad news is that the mold is already in the garbage.
The Rambler casting appears to be exactly 1/87. I'll spend the rest of the morning cleaning up the casting.
Using the product correctly is clearly a better approach. However it will also be more expensive. Using the product correctly requires that a latex mold be made of the subject, then creating a new master using Hydroshrink. Then a new latex mold is made over the resulting rubber hydroshrink casting after it has shrunk over 50%.
Latex costs will clearly be higher since you have to make the first mold. I use Alumilite, the cost would be about $25.00 for a 1/43 model. The way I did it was to create a Hyroshrink mold over the original master. Total cost of the throwaway mold about $4.50.
The down side is that I only have one chance to make a casting, then the hydroshrink mold is destroyed. Innovation or stupidity, probably the latter, but it worked.
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Post by cfesmire on Dec 3, 2006 15:39:40 GMT 1
Now if only someone could figure a way of shrinking the bills that sit on my desk as easily. I have to say (in all seriousness now) you folks doing all of these wonderful castings truly impress me. I can't begin to model anything without having a base model to add to or modify but you all start from scratch and come up with the most convincing models. Thanks for all your efforts it's a pleasure to see the results.
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Post by superba on Dec 3, 2006 15:53:16 GMT 1
After abut an hour of brushing away the remanant rubber the Rambler casting is ready for milling and finishing. The last hour was not too fun...but great results. Thirteen more models to go.
Thanks Chester for the comments. I only wish I could model my finished models as well as you do on a regular basis. I was looking at your pictures just yesterday, I am amazed at your weathering techniques.
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Post by Sylvain on Dec 3, 2006 17:34:42 GMT 1
I have to say (in all seriousness now) you folks doing all of these wonderful castings truly impress me I agree with you completely, Chester. What you all are able to do, making models out of scratch is amazing and really, really impressive. Thanks again for these great models.
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Post by superba on Dec 3, 2006 18:24:15 GMT 1
To Nicks question regarding late model Chrysler products. The answer is yes.
I already have an Allumilite mold for a 1985 Plymouth Gran Fury that I made in 1/25 scale last year. Now that I have learned how to correctly use Hydroshrink, I could actually make a master today, shouldn't take more than five minutes....only problem is that my wife is having one of those counterfeit purse parties.
My family room looks like the basement of Macy's with about twenty shrieking women gushing over merchandise. If the house doesn't get raided in the next five hours, I should be able to pull the mold out and pour in some Hydroshrink.
I also plan on copying the Corgi Dodge Royal Monaco casting. As a side note, the original 1/1 master for the Chicago Fire Chiefs car belongs to a friend of mine Dave Weaver. I have ridden in the real car many times. I have to do a HO version.
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stanhas87
87thScale addict
1978 Dodge Monaco CHP
Posts: 4,906
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Post by stanhas87 on Dec 3, 2006 19:17:34 GMT 1
Dear Joe:
Thank you!! Oh.yes!!! When I lived outside of the US,I use to love the movies (Off hand,it cames to my mind the third Episode of 'Planet of the Apes' - the original - where the bad guy drove one of these) that used these cars.I will keep CA's Magazine article with a great deal of care.Plymouth Fury 1985!!! Yes,yes!!! After the Dodge Monaco 1978,these big Chryslers,the Diplomat,Matador and Checkers are the next on favorites (must have) list.And you are talking with a guy who loves that Majorette Plymouth Fury and the very crude Summer AMC Matador sedan just because they exist!!!
Thanks one more time,
Nick K
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Lee
Senior Member
Posts: 1,899
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Post by Lee on Dec 4, 2006 3:55:23 GMT 1
I am very happy for you Joe that you were able to get a good casting from the mold. I hope the rest of them come out as well. It sounds like we are into a whole new world of creating 1/87 vehicles. ;D
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Lee
Senior Member
Posts: 1,899
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Post by Lee on Dec 5, 2006 5:51:39 GMT 1
Lee: However it will also be more expensive. Using the product correctly requires that a latex mold be made of the subject, then creating a new master using Hydroshrink. Then a new latex mold is made over the resulting rubber hydroshrink casting after it has shrunk over 50%. Latex costs will clearly be higher since you have to make the first mold. I use Alumilite, the cost would be about $25.00 for a 1/43 model. The way I did it was to create a Hyroshrink mold over the original master. Total cost of the throwaway mold about $4.50. I am cheap and Jerry is scotch so we cut costs where we can. One trick is to save the old silicone molds that are no longer usable for casting. These are cleaned with soap and water, then cut up into chunks. The chunks are used to fill areas of new molds where a lot of silicone would be needed. Such as over hoods and trunks. This should work even better when molding a larger object such as the 1/43 vehicles. The old silicone bonds to the new stuff and becomes one unit. To use I pour the new first then push the chunks down into the new mix to bring the pour up to the top.
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skunk
87thScale addict
5th B-day
Posts: 2,762
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Post by skunk on Dec 5, 2006 8:27:25 GMT 1
I love love love all of the useful tips and tricks available on this site. I too have been planning on using Peter's shrinking technique, but have so far not had the space/tools/money to do so. My frustration is eased somewhat by realising how many things there are that I now won't have to find out for myself! Thank you all.
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skunk
87thScale addict
5th B-day
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Post by skunk on Dec 5, 2006 8:34:39 GMT 1
Oh, and I am very very excited about the 1972 Plymouth. The clean, smooth and grown-up look of the "fuselage" Chryslers remain some of the most beautiful cars ever produced in the United States. I would like to know if you're planning on offering both grille configurations as well as a few of the four (or was it five?) bodystyles available? Anyhow, thanks for making a fuselage Plymouth!
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Post by superba on Dec 5, 2006 14:42:29 GMT 1
Lee, I experimented with the cutting up Silcone this past weekend. I made molds of a Mack 700 COE (Chester you should receive today).
I worked really well, it is clearly is a great way to recycle old molds.
Skunk...On the 72 Plymouth assuming my backward way of using Hydroshrink works, I will probably do one version of the a low cost two headlight version. In the summer of 72 Plymouth did run a promotional sales campaign that allow buyers of low cost Fury's to get the hidden headlamps for free. So maybe later I will do another model.
The 72 Plymouth is still not a slam dunk, the roof will have to be reworked. I think I can modify a Busch 78 Dodge roof to achieve the desired modification.
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stanhas87
87thScale addict
1978 Dodge Monaco CHP
Posts: 4,906
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Post by stanhas87 on Dec 5, 2006 19:03:57 GMT 1
Dear Joe:
Is a Plymouth Satellite Sedan 1972 part of the plans? I loved the full-size Chryslers from that period,but the mid-sized ones (Satelitte,Fury,Coronet) were not bad-looking as well.
Nick K
Dear Skunk:
I agree with you so much regarding the Plymouths...............
Nick K
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Post by superba on Dec 5, 2006 20:15:42 GMT 1
Nick: Probably not, as I really want to focues on sixties car. I just happen to love the 72 Plymouth and 75 Dodge Royal Monaco. But the good news for you is that I will definately start on the mid the 80's Gran fury this weekend. I have a hollowcast mold in 1/25 already complete. I think by casting the Hydroshrink as a hollow cast the curing will be a lot faster. If that does not work, then I will do a solid cast and mill out once reduced to 1/87. Here are some pics of the 1/25 master. I am almost done with a 1/25 scale 1972 AMC Matador four door. If the Plymouth is successful, then I'll do the Matador too.
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stanhas87
87thScale addict
1978 Dodge Monaco CHP
Posts: 4,906
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Post by stanhas87 on Dec 6, 2006 3:15:56 GMT 1
Dear Joe:
Thank you for sharing that photo.Another Chrysler body style I love (alas,I was about to ask about this 1/25 scale mold).
Nick K
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