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Post by greg87 on Dec 1, 2005 4:44:40 GMT 1
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Post by DavidJohnson on Dec 1, 2005 6:29:16 GMT 1
Greg, Your 1961 Chevrolet 4 door looks really good, and is a significant change in appearance from the CMW bubbletop. Sometime let us know how you formed the modifications. Nice work.
Dave
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Post by Sylvain on Dec 1, 2005 8:44:56 GMT 1
Yes, it looks very good! Nice work!
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Post by greg87 on Dec 1, 2005 19:55:57 GMT 1
Thanks for your comments, everyone. I originally planned to scratchbuild a new rear roof section using brass or styrene sheet, but in fact ended up using part of the roof from a "too far gone to use" Heljan 1961 Plymouth wagon I had in my junk box. The shape of the C-pillars and rear side windows looked extremely similar to the Chevrolet's, and since the width also looked about right I cut out the middle third and test-fitted it (after removing the rear half of the Chev"s roof, of course). As it turned out, it fit so perfectly I found I could just mount it in place with CA without having to do any reinforcing, although I needed to file some material off the underside for a better appearance. I then built up the roof contours with automotive spot putty and filed and sanded it to shape, filling in the corregations on the C-pillars at the same time. The B-pillars are short lengths of Evergreen styrene strip. To make the new door outlines, I located a straight-on side photo of a prototype and made an onionskin tracing of the doors and rear wheelarch, then reduced it to 1/87th scale on a photocopier and used that to make styrene scribing templates. The innermost taillight on each side (remember, I'm modelling a Bel Air) was also trimmed away, and then I used some putty on the seats to change the split-front bench into a one-piece version. I haven't decided yet what method I'll use for the rear window, but it'll be added once I've done the final painting. I might also add that I actually took the photo about a month ago, but since I don't have my own website I was stumped as how to get it online (the thread Nick Voges started on this topic answered that question- thanks, guys). With any luck, I'll have the finished product posted before too much longer. Thanks again, Greg
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skunk
87thScale addict
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Post by skunk on Dec 1, 2005 21:32:49 GMT 1
Nice. There is something about a picture of a half finished project, especially one so well executed, that just makes my fingers itch.
Could you maybe describe the function of "styrene scribing templates" a bit closer? Maybe in the Workbench section. I mainly wanted to know if you affix these templates to the car's body.
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Post by cfesmire on Dec 2, 2005 0:50:36 GMT 1
Ambitious project Greg, looks great so far. Thanks for the breakdown, interesting.
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skunk
87thScale addict
5th B-day
Posts: 2,762
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Post by skunk on Dec 2, 2005 9:12:20 GMT 1
I agree with Chester, the extra info makes the pictures that much more interesting. Unless one is familiar with both the prototype and the original model, it can be hard to know what to admire. Knowing what has been done and why adds another dimension to what's otherwise just a picture - a 1,000 words and then some.
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Post by DavidJohnson on Dec 2, 2005 19:05:35 GMT 1
Nice. There is something about a picture of a half finished project, especially one so well executed, that just makes my fingers itch. Could you maybe describe the function of "styrene scribing templates" a bit closer? Maybe in the Workbench section. I mainly wanted to know if you affix these templates to the car's body. Greg, Likewise I am interested in the process of making scribe lines on car bodies, including the tools and templates used . Dave
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Post by greg87 on Dec 2, 2005 20:08:27 GMT 1
No problem describing the scribing techniques, I'm definitely more than happy to share my methods with everybody. To make the templates, I first made a mirror-image duplicate of the photocopy of the onionskin tracing I mentioned (of the door outlines), which I did by tracing it on the reverse side. This gave me two sets of door outlines, one for each side of the car. Next, I laminated them to a sheet of .040" styrene with rubber cement, then cut out each of the rear door outlines separately, cutting them slightly undersize to allow clearance for the tip of the scribing tool. These were then placed on pieces of double-sided carpet tape, which was cut to the shape of the outline with an X-acto knife. Since my goal here was to cut new back doors in the car body, I only made rear-door templates as the outlines of the front doors were already there on the model. I then put the templates in position on the model's sides and rubbed them down tight to conform to the model's contours, then began scribing using the templates as an outline to guide the scribing tool. Since I usually work on plastic models I normally use a scribing tool by the company that makes Bare-Metal foil (sorry, but their name escapes me at the moment), but since this particular model is hard die-cast metal I decided to use my scratch awl- the standard kind found in a hardware store. I found I got the best results by making a series of light cuts, going progressively deeper with each pass, although this turned out to be a little tedious. Once everything was done, I removed the templates by slipping the blade of a hobby knife underneath and prying them off. If I were to do this again on another die-cast model, or make several models of the same type, I might decide to make the templates out of thin brass as the styrene ones were beginning to show some wear by the time I finished the scribing (although in my experience styrene templates aren't a problem when doing plastic models). In any case, it's a technique I've used a few times with real success and I'd definitely recommend it to anyone- it's certainly easier than trying to do it freehand on a curved surface, especially on that fiddly bit where the door curved around the leading edge of the rear wheelarch!
Thanks again, Greg
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skunk
87thScale addict
5th B-day
Posts: 2,762
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Post by skunk on Dec 3, 2005 12:32:09 GMT 1
Thank you, that will help me a lot. I certainly know all about the pitfalls of freehand scribing...
Brass should work well; one can also curve brass to fit around a more voluptous body.
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Post by DavidJohnson on Dec 3, 2005 14:30:05 GMT 1
Thankyou. I have a model set aside over 5 years ago because I became stalled at the scribing.
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Post by greg87 on Dec 5, 2005 20:04:50 GMT 1
Glad I could be of some help.
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