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Post by cfesmire on Mar 24, 2005 0:40:14 GMT 1
I like this idea. Being able to show projects in progress and get feedback before completion. I can't post pictures here but I will post some links if you have the time to look. This project is just getting off the ground. A Don Mills Mack B-875 (actually any B-80 model) that has the flash cleaned and some p.e. parts attached. Everything is just dry fitted together here: pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/stryper50/detail?.dir=/d798&.dnm=b5a7.jpg&.src=phI rarely hand paint anything but I gave this a try because of the oil filter and air cleaner prevented me from masking. Still much to do: pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/stryper50/detail?.dir=/d798&.dnm=e7b5.jpg&.src=phI actually decaled and clear coated this today but the chassis need much work still and there is a GHQ lowboy trailer that will accompany it.
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skunk
87thScale addict
5th B-day
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Post by skunk on Mar 24, 2005 1:29:25 GMT 1
Really nice work. I think I prefer seeing pictures of work in process, it is so inspiring.
I like the color selection. When finished, you should take a pic together with a Herpa Citroen 2CV Charleston in the same colors.
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Post by Christian on Mar 24, 2005 1:56:44 GMT 1
What was the wording ... that's how God intended them to be - red with black fenders. ;D Nice work Chester!
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Post by cfesmire on Mar 25, 2005 6:30:51 GMT 1
Thanks all. Things are moving right along and I'm beginning to work on the lowboy now. Lots of decals on the lowboy in relective safety striping and painting details. pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/stryper50/detail?.dir=d798&.dnm=40c6.jpg&.src=phI like to hollow out the headlights on these resin pieces and fill with Krystal Klear. You can see how much I mound it up but it shrinks to a good level when dry. I'm also experimenting with the heat discoloration on exhaust pipes like above the muffler on this but I still need to do some transparent blue diluted over the goldish color you see here. pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/stryper50/detail?.dir=d798&.dnm=e3c1.jpg&.src=phBTW, my bulldog sucks. It's a piece of paper. Think I'll break down and buy the brass ones from Alloy Forms.
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skunk
87thScale addict
5th B-day
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Post by skunk on Mar 25, 2005 6:43:27 GMT 1
I like to hollow out the headlights on these resin pieces and fill with Krystal Klear. You can see how much I mound it up but it shrinks to a good level when dry. That is the method I prefer. Old Roco and Wiking pieces are best, because they are already hollowed out properly. What kind of tool do you use to hollow it out? I find that the shape left by most drillbits is too conical to my taste, and use a small spoon shaped sculpting tool which I sharpened. This makes good shape headlight bowls, but it takes a long long time.
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Post by cfesmire on Mar 25, 2005 7:19:17 GMT 1
I always start out by centering with a push pin then go to a drill bit and finally a dremel circle rasp but not in the dremel tool. Just twist by hand. I only wish I could find a silver for underneath that didn't dull up after the Krystal Klear goes on. Maybe a spot of Bare Metal Foil?
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skunk
87thScale addict
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Post by skunk on Mar 27, 2005 1:19:07 GMT 1
Excellent. I have a round dremel head, but it is really hard to center when using it in a pin vise (I dont have a dremel). Drilling first is a fab idea that I really should have been able to figure out on my own.
BMF is fab-tastic, although I usually put a drop of super glue behind it in order to secure it in place - the adhesive on the BMF just isn't strong enough for such small pieces, especially since the liquid glass contracts a lot when it dries (it tends to pull the foil off of the surface). Sometimes I even put a piece of clear plastic on top of the liquid glass, that's how I made the headlight for the VW T3 DoKa in my gallery.
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Post by cfesmire on Mar 27, 2005 4:04:53 GMT 1
HÃ¥kan, That seems very effective. I'll have to give it a try. I think I'll wait for a square headlight though. Circles that small are difficult.
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Post by Meguntic on Mar 27, 2005 11:05:40 GMT 1
Chester:
A hand held leather punch works great for small circles. If you use a quality one and it has not been abused ( metal cutting ) it will cut circles in paper. If you wish to, it will punch styrene, aluminium shim stock, and brass shim stock. The major problem is that you are limited to the sizes in the star wheel, and sometimes it is difficult to get the piece you need out of the cutting stem without ruining it.
Dwight
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Post by cfesmire on Mar 27, 2005 14:21:22 GMT 1
Dwight, A leather punch would do quite well I never thought of that. Being I don't have one, a newly purchased one would certainly be sharp enough. Time to dig out the tool catalogs. Thanks. BTW, how was sledding this year? I know you had enough snow.
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skunk
87thScale addict
5th B-day
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Post by skunk on Mar 27, 2005 21:29:07 GMT 1
The hole punch I use allows me to poke the cutting out from inside of the star wheel. Of course, it is the same hole punch that we used when I was a kid, so few of the punchers are round anymore.
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Post by cfesmire on Apr 23, 2005 1:18:38 GMT 1
This project is totally Eric-inspired, a cabover with a flatbed. The U90 Autocar is from Sheepscot on a chassis (not yet cut down to length) from an Athearn Ford C. The deck is scratch made of railcar siding (you can't really see the individual planks in the photo) and u-channel the headboard is from a Lonestar trailer upgrade kit (really nice stuff on a well cast sprue). Now do I feel ambitious enough to go for a stake side? And can I take another night with the smell of Tenax? pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/stryper50/detail?.dir=d798&.dnm=4fe3.jpg&.src=ph
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Post by cfesmire on May 1, 2005 4:11:43 GMT 1
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Post by only87 on May 1, 2005 10:13:23 GMT 1
Extremely nice! The board side looks super realistic! A very fine job you did there, and I must confess I might come up with one myself one day. You go a little for the more fancy colors in recent days, do you? You also did a very nice weathering job on the Athearn mixer.
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Post by cfesmire on May 1, 2005 12:20:09 GMT 1
Thanks Peter. Actually, I'm trying to come up with more prototypical colors on some of the vintage pieces. It's kind of hard considering most of the pictures of older trucks are black & white and the paint charts don't cover commercial vehicles.
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