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Post by DavidJohnson on Mar 1, 2005 19:57:39 GMT 1
Interesting! Could you send some pictures of your models to Eric so he could post them? It would be interesting to see your results. I will be glad to send some pictures, but please be patient as my camera uses real film and a new roll was recently loaded. So it may take some time. I very much agree with Sylvain's words on painted window colors, only differing on personal preference for color. Sylvain's models are beautiful and I am learning much studying his photos. Dave
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Post by Sylvain on Mar 3, 2005 10:53:26 GMT 1
I like the highlight to be subtle, as my desire for painted windows is to have a color that does not call attention to itself. I agree with you. That's why I don't like using blue to paint windows. By the way, thanks for the kind words about my models…
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Post by DavidJohnson on Mar 5, 2005 3:58:53 GMT 1
Here are some photos illustrating painting solid cast window with graphite colored paint and adding silver high lights to similuate glare. Both red trucks are graphite paint plus clear coat. The silver pen was not used. The side windows of the Ford oil tank truck do not really look as they do in the photo- the casting surface is a little rough there and the cameral picked up the reflections. The 57 Chev had the additional step of high lighting with the silver pen. A think it is a little over done on this model, but it does illustrate the technique. The 51 Nash also has the silver pen high lights, this time blended with the brush while applying the clear coat. The materials are all items I had on hand. Floquil Graphite is used by model railroaders for the front section of American steam locomotives. It dries to a dead flat, which gives the ink pen a writeable surface. The ink pen is water based, used for marking photo albums. The Testors Acryl is also water based and with multiple coats builds to high gloss transparent film. I imagine it could be tinted blue-green for more modern vehicles. So far as painted windows go I am pleased with the results. Dave
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Post by Sylvain on Mar 7, 2005 20:22:28 GMT 1
Interesting… Very nice results!
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Post by cfesmire on Mar 8, 2005 3:10:22 GMT 1
David, Nice results with the Floquil graphite. I have some and use it much like the model RR guys do for undercarriages and wheel slots. The Poly-scale oily black is almost identical to it in color but being a water based paint has the hydrostatic properties that I like to fill in the window openings and dries with a semi gloss finish. I use a toothpick to apply in the casting window cavity and merely push the paint around in the area to be filled. BTW, for those who don't want to deal with painting windows and simply cannot tolerate a solid resin model, here's a little tutorial on how to hollow out the US Models Maserati Mistral.
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skunk
87thScale addict
5th B-day
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Post by skunk on Mar 8, 2005 7:37:11 GMT 1
BTW, for those who don't want to deal with painting windows and simply cannot tolerate a solid resin model, here's a little tutorial on how to hollow out the US Models Maserati Mistral. I beg your pardon, where is it?
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Post by cfesmire on Mar 8, 2005 13:21:03 GMT 1
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skunk
87thScale addict
5th B-day
Posts: 2,762
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Post by skunk on Mar 9, 2005 9:31:01 GMT 1
Great! I used to look at Toadwerks site all of the time, but updates stopped appearing and so I forgot all about it. I am glad to see he is doing things again.
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Post by cfesmire on Apr 25, 2005 2:08:46 GMT 1
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Lee
Senior Member
Posts: 1,899
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Post by Lee on Apr 27, 2005 1:08:48 GMT 1
Reread the seventh posting in this thread ;D
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Jerry
Junior Member
Posts: 139
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Post by Jerry on Jun 11, 2006 1:04:47 GMT 1
The old bromide, " there is more than one way to skin a cat", I guess can be applied here. Everyone seems to has their favorite method for painting windows. I personally perfer using black, however, I recently found that by painting the windows "navy gloss gray", by Model Masters #4691, and after drying,. coating the windows with "gloss pearl clearcoat #2944". will give your windows a " glare" effect. This method also "softens" the windows. Do not jump on me, as I love cats.
Jerry
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Lee
Senior Member
Posts: 1,899
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Post by Lee on Jun 11, 2006 4:37:02 GMT 1
Skin a what?
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Post by DavidJohnson on Jun 11, 2006 6:07:27 GMT 1
Yes Kitty, and there are more ways. On this model I tried something new to increase the reflectivity. It was more time consuming than simply painting. However I like the result and will probably use it again. Bare Metal Foil was applied to the whole glass area and surrounding chrome trim. Then acrylic gloss coat with a tiny amount of black added was painted on in multiple layers to give the look of a heavily smoked mirror. Four coats were applied on this model. There also is a band of green tinted gloss at the top of the windshield that does not show very well. The hardest part was to avoid painting the chrome trim. I went over it with a micro brush dipped in air brush cleaner to remove stray paint.
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Post by cfesmire on Jun 11, 2006 15:58:15 GMT 1
Dave, I too like using the BMF for glass. It started as a way to trim the chrome out (I'm better with an exacto knife than a paint brush) and then I used the Polyscale oily black for the glass over it. It does give a reflective quality that is not directional so it doesn't matter how you take the picture, the glass usually looks the same from all angles. pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/stryper50/detail?.dir=4cc7&.dnm=8a13re2.jpg&.src=ph
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Post by DavidJohnson on Jun 12, 2006 3:37:39 GMT 1
Chester, I too applied the BMF as a method to get bright chrome around the windows and was going to paint it with my ususal graphite color when the idea came to tint clear coat instead. As you say, the reflectivity of BMF under tinted clear is very directional and is brightest viewed perpendicular to the "glass" surface. For me the variations due to viewing angle and paint thickness help give an illusion of transparency. There will be plenty of opportunity to experiment with the number of solid cast models I have.
I should add that your Autocar is one very nice model.
Dave
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